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Movie-tip in Sept 2008

During the history of film some movies have been made which you have to see - because of their story, their costumes, the great actresses,... - to become a connoisseur in film as well as in costume design.

Video: "Adam's Rib" (1949)

"Adam's Rib" (1949) with Katherine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy, directed by George Cukor, is such a movie that fulfill many of the criteria which make a movie a cultural document.

"In 1992, Adam's Rib was selected for preservation in the United States National Film Registry by the Library of Congress as being "culturally, historically, or aesthetically significant"." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adam's_Rib



The Story

Katherine Hepburn plays the lawyer Amanda Bonner who has to argue before the court against the prosecutor who is at the same time her husband, Adam Bonner (Spencer Tracy).

Amanda wins the case with her successful argument that her defendant tried to defend her home by shooting her husband, when he betrayed her - similar as a man was legalized to do - and brings Adam Bonner's (Spencer Tracy) view on the sexes out of balance.


The Role Model: Modern Woman

Katherine Hepburn is famous for playing the modern, emancipated woman in film. Even in this movie she is the role model for a new woman who fights for the same rights for women as for men.

You can not find very often a female lawyer in a movie in the 40s; even in the following next 10 years this female role was rare. Because of this, "Adam's Rib" is very interesting for costume historians and designers: the female lawyer in "Adam's Rib" represents studied, modern women who worked in male "white collar" jobs during the post-war years.


The Costumes

You will see that the costumes are very fashionable in a reserved manner: the tight waist, wide skirt, bright shoulders (especially in court!), and highnecked shirts are designed for a cultivated, well dressed woman who knows the trends in fashion. Very interesting in this movie: Amanda Bonner (Katherine Hepburn) is fighting for women's rights in female outfits which are not influenced by a masculine style.

Hepburn's costume designer was Walter Plunkett (1902 - 1982 California). Plunkett won the Oscar for his costume design in "Singin' in the Rain" (1952) and was nominated several times. Check out his biography at imdb.com/name/nm0687703/bio.



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