| AMELIA
BAEZ
(Dominican Republic) |
I was born on a warm august 5th of 1981.
The setting was a spectacular tropical
island called Dominican Republic , and the sun Shone brighter than it
ever had.
Ever since I could remember I breathed,
tasted, heard, saw, touched, dreamt and thought Fashion. It was "Passion
for Fashion" as I called it. Life is a form of expression and mine
is projecting and image, Being creative and expressing myself through
this unique image. The way you look directly describes the way you feel,
and the way you feel documents your thoughts, insecurities and strengths,
it's all part of a chain. All this has always intrigued me, and these
intrigues and curiosities have driven me to where and who I am today.
Born and raised in a third world country
has its limitations, but to the contrary I always saw them in a different
light, these limitations were opportunities in disguises and brought out
inventiveness in me. I grew up surrounded by art in all its forms, images,
written word, textiles, textures and all these elements helped fuel my
creative unconscious. My father was a prominent photographer, and he taught
me how to find beauty in the most unexpected places. Abuelita (grandma)
taught me the delights of verbal expression, being a journalist and music
teacher. I was exposed to the media, and all of father's friends quickly
became my own. All of them professionals in their distinctive fields,
decorators, caterers, dancers, singers, fashion designers, stylists, journalists,
graphic artists, fine artists, and each one of them have been key at a
certain point of my life. It's funny how things come together so conveniently.
Once High School was finished I enrolled
at Altos de Chavon School of Design in Dominican Republic, affiliated
to Parsons School of Design in New York. When I finished at Chavon I still
felt hungry for more, but I wanted to experiment something new, a challenge,
unknown land. The decision was made; I moved to Italy and attended the
intensive International Fashion Program at Istituto Marangoni in Milano.
School was over, and real life started.
Life is completely different when you take on the responsibilities of
an independent person.
I began working at a Shoe Manufacturing
company in Dominican Republic as a Designer in product development. This
experience exposed me to the real market, supply and demand, deadlines
and even more important functionality. While I learned a great deal I
felt limited, the company was not giving me the opportunity to expand
and put to practice many of the things I knew.
So I quit. During that time there was
an Economic crisis, jobs in the creative fields became difficult to find.
School became my refuge. I enrolled once more in Design School, this time
Digital Design. While taking these courses and working two part time jobs
to pay for my schooling I enrolled in a competition. It was the first
edition of Mercedes Benz and Spanish Vogue Latin American Fashion Award
in Dominican Republic. I won the award, received free publicity and recognition.
I was living and loving it! Finally I could show others what I had to
offer. The economy was still bad. Regrettably I did not have the means
to start my business then, and take advantage of the publicity. Through
different freelance jobs I saved some money. Today I'm starting to live
the dream. With some money saved I bought a couple of machines and rented
a space to start a Fashion Studio called " Villa Moda" . Beginning
processes are long and arduous. It is these processes that are the most
difficult and challenging. I am enjoying every second of it.
|
Click
on the sketches and enlarge them! |
Sexy
Temptation: Madame Pompadour would leave Mozart at
a loss of words once he takes a glance at this hot little number. It's a
modern variation of "period undergarments".
Silk satin royal blue corset top with piping, draped with
two layers of pink chiffon at the waist each mounted at right front side
in opposing direction and ending at back seam where an invisible zipper
is mounted as closing device, as well as hook and eyes for support on
the inside lining. The cups are there only half way with piping and covered
in Hematite rhinestones in 20 and 30 sizes in alternating random patterns
giving just a bit of edge, leaving Triumph stylish sexy stretch tulle
bra within visible range, flattering the figure in a sexy, edgy but not
vulgar manner. The corset is covered with applications of black lace as
well as a few scattered hematite crystals just framing the draped area
as well as underneath the cups. At the sleeve area there are two trims
of lace, a black trim super imposed on a gold lace trim. Trousers are
created in black crepe in "fit" cut.
What I wanted to accomplish in this look, was not to boldly
expose the briefs, but yes do something different and show aesthetic beauty,
function ability and most importantly wearable apparel. Therefore I implemented
crystals, showing the briefs sexy design outlining them in crystal over
the pants, and not necessarily placing them on top. It seems foolish,
and it is, as it is young, playful, sexy and innocent at the same time,
it's like a twist. Briefs are outlined in jewels over pants in jet tone
(brief black fabric), hematite tone(for transparency effect) and hot pink
(bow).
Pants are cut a bit over half of the hip in a 3 inch thick
ribbon or trim shape, creating the illusion of stalking on the pants in
the same fabric, its basically just cut and sewed back on, a subtle division.
Just about 4 inches below the knee there are black and gold lace insets
in cascading shape, alternating gold and black. In order to soften the
division of crepe and lace inserts I have sewed lace cut outs as applications
just above the lace and taffeta seam. Pants are opened and closed with
a zipper placed on the left side seam. All fabric for draping and lace
trims are cut in bias, in order to get the ruffled shape desired for trims
and insets. This model is worked first on basic pattern, and then transformed
into the desired shape or design. After transformations on the pattern
have been made, I cut out a sample in plain fabric (muslin) to see the
shape of it on the mannequin, and make final adjustments to pattern before
cutting the final fabric. The next step is to cut all the pattern pieces
of the final fabric sew the piping and then assemble and sew rest of pieces,
and finally the draping, applications such as crystals and lace cut outs,
lining, zippers, hooks and eyes, and finishing touches.
|
Silky
Temptation: Hold on to your Notes Amadeus…
Madame Pomp has entered the building…and
she is not afraid to flaunt it!
This piece is funky and innovative. This is so because
of the unexpected manner in which the brief is employed. This look is
accomplished by 4 pieces cooperating together. It all starts at the shoulder
with a sexy "mini top" placed over the shoulders, trough one
of the arms and just above the bra. This would be the beautiful silky
TRIUMPH brief. Just underneath the brief we find the gorgeous light pink
Bra by Triumph with beautiful lace patterns. Underneath the bra, there
is a corset, with the bra's cup shape "cut out", which means
bra fits like a glove, sort of like a jigsaw puzzle. This corset top is
closed and opened on the center of the left side. It has piping in pink
crepe fabric and connected to light pink thin mesh, so piping in corset
is crepe and rest of corset is in mesh. The corset is decorated with lace
cut outs and tiny green bows covering the closing devices as well as decorating.
Lace is in 2 colors, apple green as well as pink, complementary colors
are always a hit.
The Skirt is in A-line. It is created by approximately
10 to 12 insets of white cotton semi transparent material. Each section
is pleated in diagonal manner, and when placed together in a pattern skirt
appears a zigzag motion. This is because fabric concentrates at pleated
area, so naturally it will only be semi transparent at the un pleated
sections. The reason for this is that I wanted to create some structured
shape, sort of simulating the "crinoline", this would be the
modern day version, only it is to be worn on the outside for everyone
to see and enjoy, and does not have piping. On the edge of the right lower
side of skirt is an arrangement of assorted color tulle flowers, in off
white, tan, pink and green colors. These are fun, romantic, soft and funky.
They are made in different sizes, by cutting out squares and triangles
of tulle in different colors and sizes, gathering them all at the center
and sewing them to give that specific flower shape. The corset is made
by transforming the basic bodice pattern, cutting along the princess lines
and cutting them out on muslin with seam margin. As always you cut the
fabric along the pattern lines (muslin), sew them together with piping.
The top edge of the corset does not have piping, because there is already
piping on the bra, and it would be too much, so a hemline will do in "French
style" seam. The piece is taken to the mannequin where we pin applications
on such as lace cut outs and bows, and then sew them on.
For the skirt we take the pattern out in basic A line,
then divide it into the appropriate sections (center, princess lines,
sides). It is imperative to make a muslin model, where we will later pleat
the strips of fabric and pin them to later sew them together. We cut fabric
in bias as always in Haute Couture, drape desired pleats on mannequin
and muslin with pins. Then we sew each section together observing pleat
shapes and that they connect correctly. Flower applications are sewn on
delicately, and zipper is sewn on left side seam and hem is finished.
This skirt has no lining, but it does have a waist band for support, hooked
together with broaches. Skirt is just about 3 inches above knee length.
|
Pretty
Sweet: Mozart could not possibly find a more appropriate
muse, as he stroked the piano ever so softly and sweetly...
This piece is a gown created in chiffon, crepe and mesh
in assorted variations of colors and tones. The top is A-symmetrical one
side covering a considerable part of the neckline and with a 3 quarter
sleeve made in see-thru, tan tone thin mesh, with cascading light chiffon
in white and off white tones with 2 layers at the elbows. The transition
from mesh to chiffon at the end of the sleeve is accomplished with lace
cut outs, decorating as well as concealing the seam line.
The right
side of the top is a very thin see thru chiffon piece that offers support
strap, but barely attempts to cover the beautiful TRIUMPH bra in blue
and lilac tones. All materials join at the waist with a beautiful draped
piece in tan chiffon that is wider at the left side and concentrates at
the right side seam. From underneath the drapery flow down layers and
layers of chiffon in cascading manner, creating soft flowing waves of
sweetness. This effect is accomplished with bias cut chiffon. The skirts
open from the center of right side to the right side seam revealing the
sexy lilac bow on the TRIUMPH unique brief. There are about 3 layers of
chiffon in lilac, tan and light blue colors, after this its an array of
cascading fabric strips at bias cut, giving them this beautiful twisting
effect, these strips of fabric vary in size, they range from 4 inches
to 7 inches approximately in width at the widest point, (they are long
diamond shapes with rolling stitch on the edges)they range in colors from
light and dark blues, tan, white and lilac colors. Starting at the sleeve
seam there are lace cut outs assembled giving the top and skirt a sort
of regal feel, they flow down from the shoulders, through the drapery,
right down to the very last trim of fabric inset.
In this piece
I transform the basic pattern to obtain the sleeve, and bodice. I cut
on the mannequin (with muslin fabric/ test fabric) the shape of the top,
the A -symmetrical neckline and base of torso for draping on top later.
For the skirt I measure the waistline on the fabric, after I have laid
all of the layers of fabric one on top of the other and pined them together
so that they don't move (lining, chiffon, I cut all layers together so
that they come out in the same size as well as it is faster to work with)
with measuring tape and pins I proceed to mark the waistline (fabric will
be folded to achieve bias cut ), then with measuring tape, starting at
the center of the marked waistline I go down until I get desired length
and mark it with pins as well, all the way around waist in pararell manner
till hemline of skirt leaving a 3 inch margin for later perfecting desired
length before finishing hem. Because skirt has cascading shape each layer
of skirt in chiffon will be smaller than the one on top. First I cut the
entire circular shape of skirt. I sew the entire skirt, with all layers
of fabric one on top of the other, including chiffon and lining. I place
this skirt on the mannequin, which will be voluminous due to the layers
of fabric underneath. And then cut according to the model desired the
shape of each layer using the sketch as my guide. Then I take all of the
strips of fabric cut at bias, and place them in their respective places
with pins. From the mannequin to the machine. I then drape the top, I
cut out all fabric for top, sow it together, each piece in separate (sleeve,
draping, right side top, left side top). I place the under parts first,
then drape the chiffon in radiating shape at the waist. Place sleeve with
pins and chiffon trims for edges of sleeve. Sew this together. Then sew
skirt and top. Back to the mannequin it is to place trims of lace with
pins on desired areas, and then sew these together. Once all this is accomplished
it is ready for finishing touches, such as zipper on the right side seam,
broaches on inside lining, closing the lining with the fabric and hems.
|
|