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Pin-up’s new clothes The typical formal construction of the Pin-up has not changed since the last hundred years: a woman, sexily but at the same time innocent looking, sitting or lying with angled legs and one or both hands behind her head. Starting with the first poster of Toulouse-Lautrec for the famous Parisian Moulin Rouge, till the well known American Pin-up artist Alberto Vargas the picture of the woman who is presented by the icon Pin-up is consistently enriched with new content. Today the Pin-up as the everlasting icon of seduction and innocence is a central theme for fashion. Designers worldwide add new glamour to this icon of popular culture. And as an icon can never loose its formal signs which make it recognizable, fashion designers provide this idol with a new, self-confident statement. And it seems as if the portrayed woman makes this statement by herself and says: “I love to be a woman.” The cliché of the „blonde and dumb” Pin-up changed already in the 50ies. The German magazine STERN reported on the 18th February 1951 about a new type of Pin-ups. Dorothy Hart presented the newest swimwear collection in a shopping mall in New York - for her own security behind glass. Dorothy Hart was one of the new, intelligent Pin-ups. She made her PhD at the Western-Reserve-University.
“They (women) have an enormous power in their sexuality. It's up to them to use it correctly and to be wise about where they go and what they do…. I'll tell you what I'm bringing back. I'm bringing back lust!” „Crisis In The American Universities” by Camille Paglia, American Professor of Humanities, September 19, 1991 at M.I.T. in Cambridge, Massachusetts. http://gos.sbc.edu/p/paglia.html Fashion as a mirror of the human society reflects this active role of today’s women with collections which pick out “Iconography” as a central theme and discuss the picture of a self-confident woman. Liza Minelli, Catherine Deneuve, Kim Novak, Marlene Dietrich, Sophia Loren,…, the icons of the American and European film have influenced the successful collection “The Iconic Woman” spring/summer 2005 by House of Diehl. By using the role models from film, Mary Jo Diehl, winner of the Triumph International Fashion Award 2004, shows the power of fashion for individualisation. With each piece of her collection, she creates new types of women on the basis of icons. It’s up to the wearer, to choose the role she wants to live in.
Photo by David Josias "Fashion is self-expression. When words fail, this image of ourselves >our social skin< translates who we are across culture, creed, and color, instantaneously. This culturally relevant message, Style, is the combination of clothes and those that wear them. Style, this interactive art of fashion, is my medium: creating community; empowering people to express themselves (not cookie-cutter brand ideology); helping you wear what you mean." Mary Jo Diehl, designer of “House of Diehl”, winner of the Triumph International Fashion Award 2004
Photo: (C) Gilles Rentiers “Pin-Up - is for me a cartoon woman, ready to play the seduction game like cat and mouse! The preferred toys are inflatable boobies, vertiginous high heels, sensual voice and dirty/promising look, breathing sex; heart warming and generous.” Aleksandra Paszkowska, designer of “Y-dress?“, finalist of the Triumph International Fashion Award 2004 Photos:
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information: fashionoffice.org, Dr. Karin Sawetz. Tel: +43.1.76985-101,
E-Mail: home@fashionoffice.org
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