Gomes’ breathtaking evening dress represents the glamorous wedding
of seductive lingerie with Haute Couture.
The skirt part consists of interwoven stockings, highlighted by the
beautiful rosette. Rafael Gomes placed the corsage of Triumph International
in the centre of his creation.
Gomes: "I was born during the carnival in Rio de Janeiro.
I already discovered my passion for fashion as a child when I sewed
clothes for my play mobile figures. For 10 years I have lived in
Munich. I am attending the German Master School for Fashion which
I will end in summer 2006. I participated in the annual fashion
show "Somewear" at which my first collection ranked first
as well as with different further unusual projects: for example
a dress made of car parts which went for “Alfa Romeo”
to the presentation of a new car to tour through Germany. For a
paper mill I created lavish paper clothes which were exhibited also
during the Fashion Week in London. At a competition of the building
firm “Hochtief” I won the first place with a collection
of working clothes."
Rafael Gomes/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
information, July 2005
on the pictures and download printable files. Please credit the pictures
with "name of the Designer/Triumph International Fashion Award
years females in fashion
Stations of underwear on the “up-coming”
the beginning of the 20th century the “up-coming” of underwear
has experienced a stylish highlight with the exclusive Chanel fashion
made of men’s underwear-textiles.
the last 150 years underwear has played different roles in fashion. The
leading role of lingerie as an integral part of Haute Couture is completely
new. For the Triumph International Fashion Award designers have created
around and with lingerie breathtaking pieces of Haute Couture.
In the last 150 years this “up-coming” impulses
for underwear can be watched. The history of woman can be read parallel
to it. Woman has escaped from bondages which may not be reduced to a corset:
she presents her femininity.
At the end of the 19th century women of most countries
of Western Europe got the possibility to enter universities. But often
subjective decisions of the faculties decided against the acquisition
the “Miss” rules: disturbing “mis”rules or necessary
Women are often reduced to external signs. Perhaps this is the reason
why they often chose the way over clothes to reform social structures.
1851 the American feminist Amelie Bloomer supported equal rights for women
in the area of clothes to make it easier for women "to move freely".
trousers "bloomers" named after her have caused a lot of excitement
although they were completely covered with a broad knee-length skirt.
Trousers were wearable for the lady merely under the most ankle-length
skirt as underwear, "Pantalons”. The visibility of lingerie
was regarded as a violation of the social rules. But however, the new
“Miss”-rules couldn’t be held back in the western world
in the middle of the 19th century any more.
eruptions with the help of sport
Women still have another area for “Miss”-rules besides fashion
which conspicuously often appears together with the stylish eruptions:
Although Amelie Bloomer's lady trousers were not accepted
on the streets, but they were very fashionable in the gymnastics hall.
The bloomers also became an example for the knickerbockers of the cyclists
at the end of the 19th century. The next attempt was made in London in
1909: the split skirt became fashion at the horse-riding.
go for men’s underwear
The “up-coming” of underwear has experienced a stylish highlight
with Coco Chanel 1914/15 which should influence fashion-designers of the
following decades lastingly. Chanel used beige cotton knitwear of men’s
underwear for the outer clothing of sportive ladies.
A new style was developed from this uniting fashion. With
the use of textiles from another genus in ladies' wear the sportive, elegant
style which is the base of today's "Business/Casual" was born.
This style has achieved the highest share worldwide with average 50% in
the ladies' wear due to the growth of women’s employment in the
meantime. In comparison with this Sportswear and Formal Wear in most countries
rank on the second and third place of the carrying habits.
Source: International Wool Textile organization, I.W.T.O.:
Vision and Perspective of consumer Behaviours and trends in Clothing.
A Global Study executed by Kurt Salmon Associates. Deutscher Fachverlag
So the history of “up-coming” has also statistically
provable consequences in fashion: by the equal rights of women a whole
division of clothes was established. Business clothes were restricted
to the man up to the second half of the 20th century.
body in the centre of stylish liberation
The body is the central topic in the history of the last 150 years of
women’s wear. It is all about that differences of the body which
restricted the liberty for women as pointed in the trousers question of
Amelie Bloomer 1851.
At the beginning of the eighties not only the business outfit has become
an indispensable topic for women who have for the first time reached the
leadership floors. A further material from the underwear area is included
in the outer clothing: Lycra. Azzedine Alaïa puts the body dramatically
into scene with bondage-elements and elastic material. The sport again
accompanies this stylish eruption: overalls with cyclist trousers are
Alaïa's greatest success.
In 1988 the next designer follows the "up-coming"
movement. His greatest fans are from the show biz like Madonna: Jean Paul
Gaultier was inspired by corsets and bras for his famous outer clothes.
By the high stylization of lingerie the ban was broken. The reduction
to something nobody can see, like the corset, was eliminated by showing
it. The woman isn't further subject to the compulsion of veiling/revealing.
And this doesn't have only to be related to her body but on her femininity
as a whole.
Designers from the whole world have fashionably explained the female icon
"Pin-up" for the Triumph International Fashion Award 2005. The
current form of expression of femininity in fashion is in the centre of
the competition. More than 700 sketches sent in show the wide spectrum
of international creativity. 7 designers selected by an expert jury present
themselves in www.fashionoffice.org/triumph.
Rafael Gomes, one of the selected designers for the Triumph
Award 2005, described his inspiration for the Pin-up as follows:
"This year's motto for the Fashion Award immediately fascinated
me. I sat there for hours and tried to design clothes which granted looks
at the Triumph lingerie. Discontent met me. I was sorry to cover the parts
to which I wanted to give effect. Basta!
I disengaged from the idea underwear belongs to be covered. This was the
idea! The Pin-up of today carries the “under” as part of “outer”
wear. The self-confidence of women has changed! In Triumph lingerie the
Pin-up completely secures her glamorous appearance! The materials are
so various, of highly quality and feminine that they will perfectly fit
for the Oscar’s Night." Rafael Gomes
and text about the collections of Triumph International: www.triumph.com/press
Contact for interviews, more information: Dr. Karin Sawetz,
fashionoffice.org, phone +43.1.76985-101, email firstname.lastname@example.org
Barbara Joana/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Fiorenza/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Karisma Costumes/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Lim Bee Lean/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Magdalena Seifried/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Rafael Gomes/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005
Susanne Zaspel/Triumph International Fashion Award 2005